Last time, we talked about the top reasons your car is rattling. But, truth be told, there are a lot of potential causes of this pesky problem! Without further ado, here are more reasons your car is rattling.

More Reasons Your Car is Rattling

1. Your timing belt or chain is loose/worn

Your timing belt is an essential part of your engine, making sure that your pistons, valves, and crankshaft all move in the correct sequence. It’s designed to work at a specific tension.

However, this belt or chain can become loose with age and use. When this happens, the reduced tension in the belt means that the chain can hit surrounding parts as it moves. These impacts are behind the rattle you’re hearing. Your timing belt or chain is likely the culprit of the sound if you notice the rattling noise increasing with acceleration and decreasing with deceleration.

2. Your drive belt is worn or broken

Much like the timing belt described above, a loose or broken drive belt will smack other engine components as it rotates, causing a rattle as it goes round and round. Sometimes, misaligned belt pulleys can also cause a rattle.

3. Bad or loose water pump pulleys

Your water pump is powered by pulleys that help make sure this crucial component operates normally. If the bearings on pulleys become loose or worn, they can cause a rattling noise during engine operation.

4. Your exhaust system is loose

If your mystery sound is coming from the bottom of your vehicle, it’s possible that your exhaust system is loose. This can happen due to age, corrosion, or road damage to the undercarriage of your vehicle.

5. Your starter is defective

How can your engine starter cause a rattle? It can happen if the component known as a ‘bendix’, which connects the starter to the engine itself, goes bad. This component connects to the engine when you turn the key so that your engine can start. If the bendix goes bad, the component may not engage or disengage as normal, causing that pesky rattle.

6. Piston problems

Your pistons may be the problem if your engine is very old or very worn. In these cases, the age of the engine means that the pistons no longer fit snugly into their cylinders. You can identify this particular problem if you notice that the rattle starts when you initially turn on the vehicle but goes away once your engine has warmed up.

7. Bad fan clutch

If your vehicle is rear-wheel drive, your rattling noise may be the result of a bad fan clutch. These types of vehicles have an engine-mounted cooling fan to help keep your engine working at an optimal temperature. If the clutch attached to this fan goes bad, you may hear a rattling noise. This particular issue often happens alongside high engine temperatures and/or overheating.

More Causes Of Car Rattling – Inside Your Cabin

As if you needed even more causes of car rattling, we haven’t even talked about noises from inside your cabin!

If the source of the rattling is coming from somewhere inside your cabin, identifying the source of the rattle may be a little trickier. Here are a few places to check if the noise is coming from inside your vehicle.

• Glove compartment
• Door pocket
• Center console
• Cup holders
• Trunk
• Folding seats
• Luggage compartment covers
• Under your seat

Car Rattle Repairs And More At T3 Atlanta

Whether you have a mysterious car rattle or you simply need routine maintenance, T3 Atlanta can help. With our extensive experience repairing Nissan, Infiniti, Toyota, and Lexus vehicles, we can quickly assess your vehicle and get your vehicle back into top shape. Give us a call at one of our two convenient Metro Atlanta locations!

When you turn on your car, you expect to hear the thrum of your engine waking up. But wait – what’s that rattle? And where is it coming from? A rattling noise can sound frightening, but it doesn’t always mean something catastrophic is about to happen. Here are the top reasons your car is rattling.

The Top Reasons Your Car is Rattling

1. Problems with the catalytic converter

If your rattling noise is coming from the back of your vehicle, it’s possible that there is a problem with the catalytic converter. This component is attached to your tailpipe and is responsible for helping keep your car operate normally.

Sometimes, whether due to age or a particularly hard knock on the road, your catalytic converter can get damaged. In these cases, the ‘catalyst’ inside the converter, which looks like a honeycomb structure, gets knocked loose. The end result? A rattle.

In addition to causing a pesky rattling noise, problems with your catalytic converter can impact your fuel consumption, decrease your fuel efficiency, increase emissions released by your car, and can even cause your car to fail its annual emissions test. It’s important to have this problem looked at by a mechanic as soon as possible.

2. Give me a brake… rattle

If you hear your car rattling when you apply the brakes, it’s possible that your brakes are worn down. The contact of metal on metal can cause that unwanted noise.

If you’re hearing sounds from your brakes when your car is stationary, it’s possible that you have broken and/or missing brake pad anti-rattle clips. These clips, as you might guess, prevent your brake pads from rattling when not in use.

Cheap brake pads are another possible culprit. Cheap pads are not only less predictable when it comes to how much pressure you need to apply to stop your car, they wear out faster and can cause that rattle.

3. Suspend your disbelief – about your suspension

Your suspension is an intricate, interwoven system that keeps you comfortable whether you’re driving in the city or on a dirt road. If you notice that your rattling is coming from your wheel wells, part of your suspension system may be the culprit.

This could include:

• Worn out shock absorbers
• Worn out suspension struts
• Loose sway bar link
• Loose or worn cushions (aka bushings)
• Damages to the suspension system

It can be hard to diagnose this issue on your own, but a certified mechanic can quickly get to the bottom of a rattle in your suspension system.

4. Your oil is low

Low oil is a potentially serious problem that can cause a rattle in your engine. Rattling from low oil happens because there isn’t enough lubrication between the components. If your oil gets too low, it can actually cause your engine to lock up, meaning costly damages – or worse, an unsalvageable engine.

If you’re hearing rattling, it’s easy to check your oil levels with the dipstick in your engine. Just make sure that your car is cold while you perform this test! If your oil is very low, you can always add oil (just make sure it’s the right type.

However, if the problem persists, it’s important to visit your mechanic to find out why your oil keeps running low.

5. You’re burning the wrong type of fuel

Fuel is fuel, right, and those numbers at the pump are just so the gas station can charge more? Well, not exactly. The ‘octane’ of your fuel really does matter. Some cars can burn anything, but others are specifically designed to burn high-octane fuel.

If you have a car in which high-octane fuel is recommended and you’re putting in the cheapest stuff at the gas station, stop. Your car isn’t designed to burn low-octane fuel, and your car is rattling because of a phenomenon known as ‘pinging’. This noise may be the result of carbon deposits, ignition timing problems, or overheating.

Low-octane fuel in a high-octane engine can significantly shorten the lifespan of your vehicle, so make sure you’re putting in the minimum recommended octane gas for your car.

Diagnose Your Mystery Car Rattle At T3 Atlanta

Just because your car is rattling isn’t always a bad thing, but it can certainly be frustrating! T3 Atlanta can help diagnose the source of the noise in your car and restore your car cabin to blissful silence. We can also help keep your car on its regular maintenance schedule and perform comprehensive repairs on car problems. Give us a call today at our Smyrna or Decatur location, and we’ll help keep your car in top condition!

Depending on when you learned how to drive, you may have learned that 10 and 2 was the ‘right’ way to hold your steering wheel. Today’s driver’s ed classes and recommendations from the NHTSA, however, teach that this is actually incorrect, and that 9 and 3 is right instead. What’s the truth? Let’s take a look.

The Right Way To Hold Your Steering Wheel

So, is there a right way to hold your steering wheel? The short answer is, “Yes”.

The right way to hold your steering wheel is at the 9 and 3 position.

Don’t:

• Don’t hold your steering wheel at the 10 and 2 position
• Don’t hold your steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position
• And definitely don’t use your knees to steer!

Why Is Holding The Steering Wheel At 10 and 2 Wrong?

But holding the steering wheel at 10 and 2 wasn’t always wrong. Prior to the universality of power steering, this position was optimal for leverage and maneuverability.

What changed? The reason is tucked behind the front housing of your steering wheel — your car’s airbag. As it turns out, this life saving device can have some unintentional consequences.

When deployed, your airbag inflates at 200 miles per hour in an upward direction, which is the first reason that your hands shouldn’t be near that half of the steering wheel. With hands held at 10 and 2, your airbag could also push your hands into your face, causing injuries to your hands and/or face.

That’s why the best way to hold your steering wheel is at the 9 and 3 position. This gives you excellent maneuverability and reaction time, as you’ll be able to turn the wheel in a 180 degree direction on a moment’s notice.

It’s also recommended that you don’t hook your thumb over the rim of the steering wheel. Instad, let your thumb rest on the face of the wheel. This will prevent your hands from getting caught if your airbag deploys.

When Steering Isn’t Easy: The Signs Of Low Steering Wheel Fluid

Every once in a while, you might notice that it’s taking an unusual amount of effort to turn your steering wheel. Low power steering fluid might be the culprit. This fluid is located in the hydraulic system that powers the steering in your car. How do you know if your steering wheel fluid is low? There are a few key symptoms.

• Difficulty steering: This is the biggest – and hardest to miss – symptom of low steering fluid. You might notice that you’re getting a minor workout just to turn into a parking space.
• Your steering wheel won’t move: An upgraded version of ‘difficulty steering’, your steering wheel can simply refuse to move if the power steering fluid is too low – or empty.
• Your turns suddenly have their own soundtrack: And not a pleasant one! When your steering fluid is low, you may hear screeches, groans, and squeals every time you try to turn your car.
• There are pink or red stains on your garage floor: If you notice that you start seeing red and pink liquid on your garage floor, especially in conjunction with difficulties steering, your power steering system may have a leak. It’s important to get this problem addressed by a mechanic, as pink and red fluid can also be antifreeze and/or coolant.

Power Steering Repair And More At T3 Atlanta

Whether your steering wheel fluid is low or you simply need routine maintenance, T3 Atlanta is here to help. Our fast and friendly service shops in Smyrna and Decatur are convenient to the metro area so you can get back on the road quickly.

If you’ve noticed your car idling roughly in conjunction with an illuminated ‘check engine light’, you may be concerned with the health of your vehicle. It’s true that there are many potential reasons for these symptoms, one of which is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve in your engine. But what is a PCV valve? And how do you know if yours has gone bad?

First, What Is Your PCV Valve?

Your PCV valve is part of your emissions system. It is located in your engine valve cover and is connected to the intake manifold.

Its job is effectively to give your engine a second chance to burn gases, increasing efficiency and reducing emissions. It also helps regulate the pressure in your crankcase and helps minimize the development of sludge in your oil.

Your PCV valve also helps protect your engine if and when it backfires by closing shut and keeping the backfire from reaching the engine crankcase.

Has Your PCV Valve Gone Bad?

There are several hallmark symptoms of a bad PCV valve. Since many of these symptoms overlap with other engine troubles, you can save a lot of time and hassle by visiting your local mechanic, who can quickly evaluate your vehicle and diagnose the root of your car’s woes.

1.Your check engine light is on

A PCV valve that’s either stuck in the open or closed position can trigger your check engine light. This happens when your vehicle’s computer detects a problem with the air-fuel mixture, whether it’s too rich (your PCV valve is stuck closed and too much fuel is in the system) or too lean (your PCV valve is stuck open and there’s too much air in the system).

2. Your car is idling roughly

If your PCV valve is stuck open, too much air will enter the engine. This means that the air-fuel mixture is too ‘lean’, resulting in a rough idle. In some cases, your car may also stall.

3. There’s a buildup of sludge in your engine

Sludge may sound like something you would never find in a car, but it’s a real problem inside of your engine that can cause costly repairs. Sludge is a semi-solid substance that’s made of oxidized engine oil, dirt, and other substances that can cause many different problems with your car.

How does the PCV valve factor into this? If this component isn’t working properly, it can allow blowby (leaking combustion gases) to mix with your engine oil. This combination creates that thick and gooey substance known as sludge that can clog and damage your engine.

4. Your car is slow to accelerate

If your PCV valve is stuck in the open position, the resulting ‘lean’ air-fuel mixture can make it difficult for your car to accelerate. Sometimes, this problem can also make it difficult to start your car.

5. Your car is leaking oil

As mentioned above, your PCV valve helps regulate the pressure in the crankcase.

If it’s stuck closed or clogged, it will throw off the balance, forcing oil through gaskets, seals, the air cleaner assembly, and onto your garage floor.

6. Your fuel efficiency isn’t what it used to be

A PCV valve that is stuck in the closed position can allow too much fuel into your engine, resulting in a ‘rich’ mixture. The end result is fewer miles per gallon and more trips to the gas station.

Can It Be Fixed?

The only way to fix a broken PCV valve is to replace it. For the intrepid, you can pull out and replace the faulty part on your own unless your PCV is built into your valve cover. In these cases, the entire assembly must be replaced. T3 Atlanta can help. With over 20 years experience repairing Nissan, Lexus, Toyota, and Infiniti vehicles, we’ll get you back on the road in no time. Give us a call at one of our two convenient Metro Atlanta locations today!

It’s no secret that your car engine gets hot, with normal operating temperatures averaging around 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Although your engine is designed to perform under these conditions, an issue with a single component can make the difference between ‘hot’ and ‘too hot’. Without further ado, here are the top 5 reasons a car can overheat.

Your Water Pump Is Leaking Or Bad

Your water pump is an essential part of your engine’s internal cooling system, moving water throughout your engine to help keep components at a normal temperature. A bad water pump won’t pump water effectively, if at all, meaning your engine parts can’t cool down normally.

A leaking pump will drain water out of your cooling system over time and needs to be diagnosed by a mechanic.

Your Thermostat Isn’t Working Properly

The main function of your engine thermostat is to release additional coolant to your engine to help keep temperatures normal. This is especially useful when your engine is working hard in hot conditions.

When your thermostat isn’t working properly, such as getting stuck in the ‘closed’ position, it isn’t able to release coolant into your engine as it starts to warm. The end result? An overheating engine.

Your Radiator Isn’t Doing Its Job

Your radiator cools down engine coolant as it passes through this component. The biggest culprit here typically relates to the radiator fan. If the fan is broken or has a faulty connection to your onboard computer, it won’t effectively keep your coolant at a normal temperature.

If you aren’t comfortable diagnosing this problem yourself, a mechanic can help.

A Hose Or Belt Is Loose Or Broken

Your engine is full of hoses and belts, and your cooling system is no exception. Hoses pump fluids such as coolant throughout your engine, while belts make sure that components have the power to operate normally. As such, a leak or loose belt is another one of the reasons a car can overheat.

Your Coolant Is Low

Your coolant, as the name suggests, is designed to help keep your car running at a normal temperature. It’s typically neon green and smells sweet and should be kept away from children and pets.

Low coolant can sometimes cause your engine temperatures to rise. Fortunately, this problem is an easy one to fix. Simply go to your local auto supply store, purchase some coolant, wait for your engine to cool, then add coolant up to the level recommended in your user’s manual.

If topping your car’s coolant tank off doesn’t help, then there may be a problem within your coolant system, such as a blockage or a leak. You’ll need to visit a mechanic to get these issues repaired.

Fix All Of The Reasons A Car Can Overheat T3 Atlanta

When your car overheats, it can damage your engine and compound repair costs. In a worst case scenario, your engine can seize up and require extensive repairs. That’s why if you see your car overheating, it’s important to pull over immediately and turn off your car to prevent damage to your engine. Then, have your car towed to T3 Atlanta for fast and friendly repairs. We’ll find the cause of your engine woes and get you back on the road in no time.

We recently talked about the top reasons your car fails its emissions test. Since there are a lot of potential reasons that this outcome can happen, here are five more reasons your car can fail an emissions test.

1. The air filter is dirty

Your car’s air filter works to prevent dirt, dust, and other debris from entering your engine. This clean air helps your engine perform normally and run efficiently.

How does a dirty air filter impact your emissions test? Since your air filter impacts how your car ‘breathes’, dirt and clogs can change your engine’s normal combustion. In other words, it may throw off test results even if there is nothing wrong with the rest of your engine.

On average, it’s recommended to change the filter every 12,000 – 15,000 miles. If you live in an area that’s dry and dusty, or if you have a hobby like offroading, you may need to change your air filter more frequently.

2. Your spark plugs are worn out or faulty

Your car’s spark plugs provide the literal ‘spark’ needed to ignite the air-fuel mixture inside your engine’s cylinder. As they’re used, they gradually wear out over time, becoming less efficient and causing incomplete combustion. This incomplete combustion, in turn, causes increased emissions that will show up on an emissions test.

The exact lifespan of a spark plug varies depending on what they’re made of. Copper-tipped spark plugs typically last up to 20,000 miles and platinum or iridium-tipped plugs sometimes last the life of the vehicle.

3. There’s a problem in the ignition system

Reasons your car can fail an emissions test also include other issues in the ignition system, such as bad plug wires or worn out or faulty ignition coils. Like spark plugs (another part of the ignition system), these issues can cause engine misfires and increased emissions that lead to that unwanted test score.

4. There’s a malfunction in the secondary air injection system

Your secondary air injection system is a system of several components that work together to reduce vehicle emissions. If one part of this system malfunctions or breaks, that can cause an increase in the pollutants in your car’s emissions. The end result? You guessed it – a failed emissions test.

5. There’s a leak in the vacuum hose

Your car’s vacuum hose is one part of the Evaporative Emission Control System (EECS). This system is designed to prevent gas vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. A leak in your vacuum hose – or a worn out gasket connecting the hose to the rest of the system – can throw off the system’s normal operation and lead to a failed emissions test.

Pass Your Emissions Test With Ease With T3 Atlanta

If your emissions test is coming up and you want to make sure that you pass on the first try, bring your car to T3 Atlanta. We can help make sure that your car is in top condition, helping you avoid troublesome error codes or unpleasant surprises on test day. Give us a call at one of our two convenient metro Atlanta locations in Smyrna and Decatur, and we’ll pen you in for an appointment!

Your check engine light may seem like an ominous sign that something terrible is about to happen to your car, but don’t panic – it’s not always the case. The check engine light comes on when your vehicle’s computer detects a problem with the emissions system. Since the problem may be significant or small, let’s help you get to the bottom of the cause with the top reasons your check engine light is on.

1. Your gas cap is loose, worn, or missing

Your gas cap may be a small part, but it does a big job in keeping fuel and gas fumes inside your gas tank while keeping dirt and road debris out. This is the simplest reason your check engine light is on, and it’s also quite easy to fix.

First, you’ll want to tighten the gas cap to make sure it’s secure. If your check engine light doesn’t turn off, then you’ll need to get a new one. Similarly, if your gas cap is missing, it’s time to get a new one. Your local auto supply store will have a replacement part.

2. Your oxygen sensor is bad

Your oxygen sensor helps regulate the fuel-air mixture that goes into your cylinders by measuring how much oxygen is in your exhaust system.

Depending on the year, make, and model of your car, your vehicle may actually have several oxygen sensors. A fault in any one of them can trigger your check engine light. This problem is easy enough to fix with a replacement oxygen sensor, but make sure you determine which one is faulty first!

3. Your spark plugs and/or ignition coils may be the culprit

Your spark plugs ignite the fuel and air mixture that enters your engine cylinders. A worn-out spark plug can trigger a check engine light, as can faulty spark plug wires.

Your vehicle’s ignition coils are responsible for generating the electricity your spark plugs need to work. Older vehicles may only have one coil, while newer vehicles typically have one coil per spark plug. An issue with a single coil can trigger a check engine light.

4. Your mass airflow sensor is bad

Your mass airflow sensor may sound the same as an oxygen sensor, but it’s actually a different part. This sensor detects air temperature inside your engine, which in turn helps your car’s computer adjust the fuel-air mixture so your car can run efficiently. You will need to have this part replaced if it’s gone bad.

5. Your catalytic converter is failing or faulty

In short, your catalytic converter takes the harmful gases your engine produces during normal operations and converts them into odorless, less-harmful gases. Although many modern catalytic converters last the life of the vehicle, they can become damaged or wear out prematurely, triggering your check engine light. This problem doesn’t go away on its own and can cause significant repair costs if left unchecked.

Read more about the signs of a faulty catalytic converter»

6. Your vacuum hose is leaking

Your vacuum hose is part of the EECS (evaporative emission control system), which is designed to prevent gas vapors from escaping. When your vacuum hose is old and/or leaking – you guessed it – this problem can trigger the check engine light. The gasket that connects your vacuum hose to the rest of the EECS can also crack or wear out, likewise triggering the check engine light.

Troubleshoot Your Check Engine Light With T3 Atlanta

If you’re dedicated to getting to the root of the problem yourself, you can always purchase a code diagnostic reader to read what error codes are in your engine’s computer. Alternately, you can visit us at T3 Atlanta for fast answers about this troublesome light. Our service centers are open and honoring social distancing guidelines to protect our guests and our team.

Tucked at the very back of your vehicle out of sight and out of mind, your car’s exhaust may not seem like it does much. In fact, it plays an essential role in reducing emissions, controlling noise, and maximizing your engine’s efficiency and power. We recently talked about the top reasons that you might see white smoke coming out of your exhaust. Today, we’ll be looking at why you might see blue smoke coming out of your car’s exhaust.

1. Bad valve seals

The valves in your engine serve two main functions: to let gasoline and air in and to release exhaust out.

Like much of the rest of your engine, oil lubricates the valves to help them operate normally. Valve seals prevent the oil from getting into other parts of your engine. When your car’s valve seals wear down, oil can escape the valves. The resulting combination of burning oil and gas can cause blue smoke.

2. Stuck or blocked PCV valve

The PCV valve (aka the positive crankcase ventilation valve) is responsible for recycling gases in your engine’s crankcase back into your intake manifold. This process gives your engine another chance to use any uncombusted gases, thus improving your gas efficiency.

When your PCV gets stuck in the closed position or becomes blocked, the imbalance of pressure in the crankcase can cause oil to get into the engine. The burning oil in the engine leads to the blue smoke coming out of your exhaust.

3. Your car has a blown-out turbo

If your car has a turbocharger, a blown-out turbo may be causing the blue cloud behind your car. A blown-out turbo can be identified by a broken or damaged oil seal. In this case, oil gets sucked into your engine’s combustion chamber. There, oil mixes with fuel and leads to blue smoke.

4. Your engine is worn out

With modern engines lasting so long these days, it can be easy to forget that even the best-constructed engines can wear out. When it comes to worn engines as a cause of blue smoke, any seal – whether it’s in your pistons, valves, and/or other components – can lead to the mixture of burning oil and fuel notorious for causing blue smoke.

5. Transmission fluid loss

The transmission modulator is a part in older cars that detects your current engine load in order to most efficiently shift from gear to gear. If your transmission modulator goes bad, it can lead to your engine sucking in transmission fluid. Once inside your engine, transmission fluid and fuel burn and cause blue smoke to come out of your exhaust.

Keep Blue Smoke Away With T3 Atlanta

There are many potential reasons that cause blue smoke to come out of your exhaust. The easiest way to detect the exact cause of the problem is with a certified, experienced mechanic. T3 Atlanta is here to help. Our team will quickly assess your Nissan, Lexus, Infiniti, or Toyota and find what’s causing the blue smoke in your engine. Give us a call today for fast and friendly service!

Every car owner knows the annual inconvenience of getting an emissions test. When that dreaded ‘fail’ score comes back, what should be a short trip in and out can become a prolonged process with multiple visits. What makes a car fail an emissions test? Here are 5 reasons.

5 Reasons Your Car Can Fail An Emissions Test

1. Catalytic converter issues

Your catalytic converter is an important part of your exhaust system, converting harmful, sulfurous-smelling gases into odorless gases that are safer for your health and the environment. Whether there’s damage to your catalytic converter or it’s gone bad or faulty, issues with your catalytic converter can make your car fail an emissions test.

2. Your EVAP system isn’t working properly

Your Evaporative Emission Control System (EVAP) is an intricate system of vents, hoses, and programs responsible for making sure that harmful gasoline vapors stay inside of your fuel system. This can cause your car to fail an emissions test if this system is faulty in any way, including cracks, leaks, and other damage.

3. Your oxygen sensor is faulty

Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor is responsible for measuring the amount of oxygen present in your exhaust fumes, which in turn tells your onboard computer if your car is performing normally. When your oxygen sensor is faulty, it can do more than give your car a ‘fail’ on its emissions test. A problem with this sensor can lead to other problems such as rough idling, decreased engine performance, engine overheating, and higher emissions.

4. Your vehicle is running a fuel-rich system

More is better, right? Well, not when it comes to your engine’s fuel mixture. A fuel-rich system means that your car is burning more fuel than it should. This can happen for many reasons, including faulty fuel injectors, fuel injectors that are clogged or leaking, a faulty mass air flow sensor, or a faulty oxygen sensor.

5. Your gas cap is loose or leaking

Your gas cap has an important role, keeping gasoline inside your gas tank and contaminants such as dirt, water, and other debris outside of it. With any luck, your problem is as simple as a loose gas cap that you can tighten at the emissions shop.

If your gas cap has a worn seal or is leaking, you’ll need to get a replacement. Fortunately, this is an easy DIY project: you can easily pick up a new gas cap at your local auto parts shop and replace it yourself.

Prevent Failed Emissions Tests With T3 Atlanta

Whether you’re preparing to get your vehicle’s emissions test done or you need to try again, T3 Atlanta can help. We’ll inspect your vehicle and make sure it’s ready for inspection, helping save you the time, hassle, and headaches of repeat visits to the local emissions testing center. Give us a call today at one of our two convenient metro Atlanta locations!

No one needs to tell you that when your car is working correctly, you shouldn’t see any smoke coming out of your exhaust. When something isn’t quite right in your engine, though, there are actually several colors you can see in your exhaust smoke. Blue, grey, black, and white smoke colors each have a different cause. Today, we’re going to talk about what white smoke coming out of your exhaust means.

White Smoke: When To Worry

You may be surprised to learn that there are, in fact, occasions when white smoke coming out of your exhaust is completely normal. The key here is density and duration.

• Is the smoke more like vapor or mist? Does it appear when you first start your car up and then go away quickly? Is it also cold outside? If so, you don’t have to worry about anything. It’s most likely condensation.
• Is the smoke dense like fog? Does it continue flowing out of your exhaust for as long as your car is on? Worse, does it also smell like something is burning? If so, it’s time to make an appointment with your mechanic.

If you’ve run through this checklist and still aren’t sure whether or not to be concerned, it’s a good idea to give your mechanic a call.

The Most Common Causes Of White Smoke Coming Out Of Your Exhaust

Now that we’ve addressed when not to be concerned about the white cloud behind your car, let’s talk about situations that fit into the second category, where your car produces dense white exhaust the entire time it’s running.

1. Your EGR cooler is bad

Your Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) cooler is part of your exhaust system that helps reduce emissions. A bad EGR cooler can drain coolant into the exhaust system, where the combination of exhaust and coolant causes the white cloud behind your vehicle. If your EGR cooler is bad, you will need a replacement.

2. Your vehicle has a cracked cylinder head or bad head gasket

When working properly, your vehicle’s head gasket prevents coolant from getting to the cylinders in your engine. If your head gasket develops a crack or has a poor seal, it can let coolant get into the cylinder. There, the combination of engine oil and coolant leads to white smoke coming out of your exhaust. The cost and extent of repairs for this issue will depend on the exact issue present in your engine.

3. Your coolant tank is leaking

A leaking coolant tank is another possible cause of white smoke, although this problem is usually seen coming from the engine compartment and not the exhaust pipe. It’s rare for your coolant tank to leak, but when it does, it’s important to get a replacement since your coolant keeps your engine working at a normal temperature.

4. Your fuel injectors aren’t working like they should

Your car’s fuel injectors are responsible for delivering a precise amount of fuel to the engine. If these parts become faulty for any reason, then excessive fuel burn can result in greyish or white smoke coming from your exhaust.

Your engine control unit – the computer that tells your fuel injectors when and how much fuel to inject into the cylinders – can also cause white smoke. In these cases, an error with the timing and/or the amount of fuel being injected into the vehicle’s cylinders is the culprit.

Other Causes Of White Smoke Coming Out Of Your Exhaust

In addition to the causes we’ve listed above, there are a few more possible reasons that there is white smoke coming out or your exhaust.

• Leaking transmission fluid or antifreeze
• Oil leak (this generally causes blue smoke, but can produce white smoke in some vehicles)
• A cracked engine block

Fast and Convenient Auto Repair With T3 Atlanta

As you can see, there are quite a lot of potential reasons that can lead to white smoke coming out of your exhaust. If you want a definitive answer without the hassle of diagnosing the problem yourself, call T3 Atlanta. Our experienced, friendly mechanics can quickly assess your Nissan, Lexus, Infiniti, or Toyota and find the cause of the issue. Give us a call today at either our convenient Smyrna or Decatur location and we’ll pen you in for an appointment!